A.
Among the raw materials which are the important components and very
often used in cosmetics, lipids occupy one of the main places. Long
time ago people began to use the most readily available animal and
plant fats such as lard and fat, palm, olive and almond oils. They
consist of triglycerides of higher saturated (lauric, myristic, palmitic,
stearic) and unsaturated (oleic, linoleic and linolenic) fatty acids.
This chemical composition largely determines the ease of penetration
into the upper layers of the epidermis. In this way they are the most
suitable and the basics of nutrition and to a lesser degree of protective
creams. Negative feature of lipids is their ability to rancidity associate
with the unsaturated nature of triglycerides, fatty acids. The products
of their decay are aldehydes, ketones and fatty acids, and they have
an irritating effect on skin or mucous membranes. These processes are
delayed by hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acids, however, this
fall vitamins D, P and F. Due to the presence of the important esters
of higher fatty acids with monohydric alcohol in these components -
isopropyl microstate, and izopropilpalmitat, it is easy for them to
penetrate the skin.
B. Hydrocarbons (Vaseline, paraffin and fat-free ozokerit) are the most
frequently used in creams for hands and nails. They are part of hand cream with a protective effect with weak ability to penetrate into the skin.
Petroleum jelly is a mixture of solid and liquid hydrocarbons obtained
during the fractional distillation of earthen oil. In cosmetics, the most
commonly used are white petrolatum, and the yellow part of some preparation.
Artificial petrolatum is a mixture of solid paraffin and Vaseline oil.
C. Waxes are esters
of fatty acids with monohydric less, with two-Higher alcohols. Also,
waxes contain free acids, free alcohols, sterols and others.
Most of them have a solid mass. Made of natural waxes the most important
are for cosmetics important cera ulba, cera flava, cetaceum, alcohol
cetylicus, alcohol srearylicus, adeps lanae, Lanolinum.
D. Lanolinum is a purified fat obtained from sheep's wool has
a complex chemical composition used to prepare preparation increase the fat content
in the skin. Such a cream has some disadvantages: the smell of which
is
difficult to escape even after a thorough cleansing, adhesion and the
ability to cause allergic reactions. From lanoline by hydrolysis are higher alcohols
used for the preparation of emulsions with a wide range pH.
E. Cetaceum produced from oil, located in the cavities of the
skull and vertebrae and the whale, sperm whale is very essential for preparing
hand
and nail treating cream. Cetaceum is a firm, white scaly, crystalline
mass. Cetaceum produces liquid oils for sealing compounds that become a solid
mass and the ability smeared with a thin layer.
F. Alcohol cetylicus and alcohol srearylicusy are a white,
solid crystalline mass. Wax is used primarily as a sealant fatty oils, liquid
paraffin, and
Vaseline.
G. Lecithin, which is used in the cream production, obtained
from various raw materials - egg yolks, brain helps.ycp animals, corn and soybean
seeds,
etc. is very important for preparing creams. And of course in the hand
and nails treatment creams include natural extraction, such as chamomile,
aloe and calendula.
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